Picks We Liked
Thealso impressed me alongside the DMM Dyon. The wire gate is more conventional than the Dyon, but like the Dyon it’s completely snag-free, as DMM has effectively eliminated the notch on the nose. At 36 grams, it’s unnoticeably heavier than the Dyon and a few dollars more expensive.
Our old recommendation for a locking carabiner, the, and the non-HMS are both excellent choices if you need snag-free lockers with buttery smooth screw gates and relatively low-ish weight. I didn’t notice any difference in building quality between the two.
There are various locking mechanisms for locking carabiners, including twist-lock and magnet-operated ones. They’re all fine, but go with the classic screw-gate, which is much cheaper. It’s what I use. If it gets stuck, apply some outward pressure (put it under load) and then try unscrewing it.
Thewas my old pick, but I got tired of rope snagging the nose. Its schnoz has a reduced protrusion compared to traditional carabiners, so it’s not terrible, but it’s also not snag-free. Plus, they’re awfully small, and so building anchors on them can quickly become cumbersome. They’re still a fine choice for when you’re prioritizing low weight at a low price, such as clipping quickdraws.
A burlier option, the, certainly felt more substantial than the Black Diamond Crag gloves, but they’re overkill for most routes. Being made completely of cowhide with reinforced palms, they made me feel like I could’ve used them to grab onto a passing locomotive. The downside is that in the summer heat, they sure get sweaty.
Things We Didn’t Like
Theperformed admirably, but its non-scalloped edges made it extraordinarily heavy at 85 grams—twice the weight as the other lockers I tested. Most people won’t need something this huge. Plus, the nose had a tendency to snag on everything.
The, a climbing classic, has been updated recently but just doesn’t stand out anymore. The nose snags so badly that I owe mine an apology for the names I called them in Alaska this spring.